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Man Out of traces of fireplaces

To date guide Ampezzo died at older ages is certainly Pompanin Zacharias said "Zacara de Radesca", born in the village of Zuel died on 26/8/1861 and 22/3/1955, the threshold novantaquattresimo years of age. Pompanin admirably embodied the golden age of going to crags in the Dolomites, was driving in 1892 and practiced without interruption for nearly thirty five years, retiring in 1926. Clearly the achievement of advanced age is a "Runs in the Family", since three daughters Pompanin have crossed the threshold of the nineties: Mary is off ninety-six years; Oliva reached ninety-five; Zita is off to one hundred and two. The company best known Pompanin of Zechariah, who in the twenty years 1892 - 1912 he carried out a fortnight, including some very interesting, is undoubtedly the "Camino Pompanin" on the N wall of the Croda da Lago Way, opened on 28/08/1895 with the musicologist Turin Leone Sinigaglia and his colleague Angelo Zangiacomi, offered climbers a 70 meter high chimney, which required a refined technique and was very "à la page" in the era of exploration dolomitic. Today I think that most of those attending the summits Cortina do not even know where he's at home that a fireplace, a hundred years ago that led to the Refuge Barbaria, who was born in 1901 on rive del Lago di Federa, alpinisti da tutta Europa. Delle tante vie del “Zaca”, che nei camini s'intrufolava come un gatto, forse un paio riceveranno ancora qualche visita nelle belle stagioni: è l’amaro destino dell’alpinismo d'una volta, che ormai richiede troppa fatica, sacrificio e rischio per essere gustato.

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Quando salgo a Pratopiazza, volgo sempre lo sguardo verso una cima poco nota e frequentata, perché priva di sentieri, da segnalare a chi ama l'alpinismo fuori dalle tracce, senza bolli né tabelle, in ambiente magnifico: la Ponta del Pin.

La Ponta emerge dalla dorsale che si allunga dalla Croda Rossa verso E, e la si può ammirare già da Cimabanche. Dal ramo che la montagna protende verso il Passo scende un crinale, in alto roccioso e sotto coperto di vegetazione, che limita in destra orografica la Val dei Canopi, storico punto di transito fra la Pusteria e Ampezzo.

La costiera si chiama Costa del Pin perché è rivestita da pini silvestri; l'elevazione che la domina, salita nel 1906 da alpinisti austriaci, pur non ospitando pini sulle sue pendici ha lo stesso nome, Ponta del Pin. Lungo il crinale della Costa corre il confine fra Veneto e Alto Adige, del quale - in mezzo a mughi inextricable - wishing you can indulge in identifying the stones.

Ponta climb, but with difficulty climbing is not very high commitment from Pratopiazza, moving first to the SW through meadows and woods, and then aiming at the entrance of a gravel down a notch between the tip and the spur E. For a short but steep channel blocks, standing on the right you come to a fork in a beautiful arch rock. Turn right again, continue on the partition wall and flank, easy little man with a few rocks and debris, which allow you to get up gently to the soft rock, far as the pre. Along the ridge a bit 'exposed, in short is the top.

for the first time I climbed the Bridge Pin, excellent on the observatory and the Croda Rossa and Dürrenstein in 1990. Documented and I was intrigued: I drove the short description of the ascent is in the guidance of Berti the Eastern Dolomites, and I had talked with his son Camillo, which confirmed to me that you have climbed the tip with his father in the '30s.

Since then I have shared that goal with several friends for five or six times. Following faint traces and forget, I discovered the magic of a corner of the most solitary and less trampled in the Dolomites, which I think deserves great respect.

From left: Bridge Pin, Croda Rossa, Crodaccia High, Little Croda Rossa
(from Pratopiazza, autumn 2009)

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August 15 in the mountains

I've always heard that, fulfilling an ancient custom, in Cortina (and perhaps not only here) the day of Ferragosto mountain guides and climbers in the mountains not climbed, the religious festival honoring the town . To a certain period, the rule was true guides (with some exceptions), but not for the squirrels that often, just that giorno, in montagna ci andavano eccome. Limitandomi alle realizzazioni dei primi 40 anni di vita del gruppo, nel 1945 Ettore Costantini, Luigi Menardi e Armando Apollonio raccordarono con un tratto di VI le Vie “Miriam” e “Diretta” sulla Torre Grande delle 5 Torri; l’anno dopo, Albino Alverà e Ugo Pompanin conclusero la II ripetizione della Via Comici sulla parete N del Salame (Sassolungo); nel 1955 Beniamino Franceschi e Candido Bellodis iniziarono a salire la parete NW della Torre d’Alleghe (Civetta), terminando la scalata il giorno seguente dopo 20 ore; nel 1968, Lorenzo Lorenzi e Luciano Salvadori scalarono la parete S della Torre Fanes per una via dedicata allo Scoiattolo Ivano Dibona, scomparso A few days ago. Finally in 1974, to commemorate the twentieth anniversary of the conquest of K2, Raniero Valleferro, Carlo Alberto Dallago Demenego and - after 40 hours of wall - came on top of the Spur Tofana Central Middle. For the following years, from memory I do not remember business major from August 15 match. In 1982, it fell to me to transgress the ancient precept, rising for the first time the dihedral W Cason de Cima Formin (Croda da Lago). The beautiful day mitigated the guilt felt in breaking a custom village ...

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Back to Kradorferalm

We're back in the Kradorferalm Gsiesertal for the fourth time in less than three years. The hut is one of our latest discoveries hiking, and entered immediately in the objectives of the nicest winter, despite the access road is almost as long as one foot. The building is located at 1704 m, along the final stretch of the valley from Santa Maddalena penetrates northwards until it meets the Italian-Austrian border. To reach it, after about fifty km drive from Cortina Dobbiaco Villabassa, and the entire Monguelfo Gsiesertal, parked in the "heart" of Santa Maddalena, where there is a roundabout, and continue on foot. First for a stretch of paved and flat, then to a forest road in the woods, almost always finding more ice than snow (crampons are not are a bad idea ...), going with mean slope of the valley, passing to the left of Mesneralm (also open), after an hour we arrive at Pidigalm. On the right, after another pasture and a bridge, situated amidst the pines our goal. The place is quiet, rustic atmosphere, excellent cuisine and the walk did not lead to superhuman efforts. In winter, we stop here, but in summer you can still continue encountering another hut, the Oberbergalm, near Austria. Then we are at the foot of Corno Fana Casies second highest peak in the valley and superb goal with a sweeping view, which I remember with pleasure. For the descent, we tried a delicious novità: il "Sentiero Scoiattolo", che torna a Santa Maddalena restando sempre sulla sinistra orografica della valle, attraversa prati e pascoli con piccoli fienili e confluisce nell'ennesima strada boschiva che movimenta questo territorio conservato ed amato, dove il turismo è in armonia con la natura.

Piacevole novità, scendendo dalla Kradorferalm, 23 gennaio 2011

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Tower of Longerin Ezio Culina, 1985



At the end of the street to the Tower Bulfoni Ezio Culina, with Paul, September 8, 1985

all happened a few years ago, one Sunday in September. I arrived just in town, I knew almost nobody and I was advised to visit Gianni, who, like me, was an avid mountain. Said and done: recovered a backpack and a harness, the day after John, Paul and I were already on their way to ... groped a new way! I did several climbs, but the new route was an experience I still miss it. Any doubts melted away, thinking that I was fit enough, only a week before I got the "edge Dibona" \u200b\u200bon the Three Peaks, and above all I was entrusted to two climbers navigated and enthusiastic. The new route without success: after a couple of lengths, we were blocked by a wall so brittle that they would accept pitons than nails, and reluctantly we had to get off. But all was not lost: the indefatigable John proposed to console us, a way of repeating his friend Marc, on a tower nearby. After such a way we could spend Sunday, and that path had to be nice! The wall is an experience without infamy or praise after about four preferred length untied and get everyone for its own account sull'aguzzo tower, which stands at the center of an amphitheater delicious, then unknown to me. For some minutes I breathed in deeply the joy of climbing, the company, the fact that my "baptism" with the friends of alpine valley had taken place so quickly and happily. The descent was almost more difficult the climb, but everything happened as it had arrived and happy for the Hills "taiut" rite. I was on cloud nine, I had repeated a way of Marcello and right in his reign, the Crode Longerin. I have reviewed the area a few more times, most recently in July 2010: the tower on which John and Paul offered me the rope and friendship for a climb in the company, by now is familiar to me even from afar. Twenty-five seasons have passed now, alas!

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Venanzio Zardini, bearer

Among the guides and porters who practiced Ampezzani activity at the time of the pioneers, there is also such a Venanzio Zardini, curiously dubbed "de ra death." Born in 1842 and died at seventy years of actual job Zardini was a shoemaker. In the papers, I have not found his name linked to climb, and a few images of his "activities" while accompanying him down on a stretcher, with other colleagues, to invalidate a tourist Sachsendank Hütte, the shelter opened in 1883 on the summit of Nuvolau. Character non ho dati che rilevino per la storia dell’alpinismo. Faceva il portatore e forse non s’impegnò mai in grandi performances, limitandosi a condurre i clienti in camminate di medio impegno oppure, più facilmente, a varcare forcelle e passi dove oggi si passa comodamente in automobile, ma che allora erano ancora ritenuti misteriosi. E’ peccato saperne poco, poiché anche le guide “minori” come Zardini contribuirono alla storia dell’alpinismo a Cortina. Nel suo caso, poi, è enigmatico anche l'inquietante soprannome assegnatogli, tramandato anche agli eredi. Quando porterò a termine la sognata ricerca analitica complessiva sulle guide ampezzane della belle époque che, non avendo lasciato documentazione sulla conquista di cime o prime salite su di esse, sono state relegate nell’oblio? Per intanto, riservandomi di analizzare magari a fondo l’origine del soprannome, prendo atto che anche Zardini, nell’ultimo quarto del XIX secolo, contribuì a far conoscere le montagne del circondario d’Ampezzo e allo sviluppo del concorso dei forestieri, che in quel periodo si andava affermando anche nella nostra vallata.

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Popena Low, small but no less

Nel gruppo del Cristallo, l'oronimo “Popena”, di origine molto antica, identifica più di un luogo: due valli (la Val Popena Alta e la Val Popena Bassa), a peak (Piz Popena), a Pass, a saddle, two towers, a spire, a tower that was renamed in 1893, and finally a top definitely not bold. Quite famous because 85 years ago a young Vicenza, Severino Casara, we inaugurated the climbing Misurina, now on its walls run various routes of all difficulties. The peak in question, the Popena Low, wide dome is covered with dwarf pines, which culminates at 2225 m Misurina overlooking the lake with a large yellow and gray wall, a hundred to two hundred meters high It has a double oronimo: some, including this writer, called the Monte Popena, Popena other down, but many confuse it with the "big brother", Piz Popena, who is standing right behind him but has more features. Our "small, but not less than" Popena is the goal of a pleasant walk, which is an interesting flight, maybe autumn, nature. Especially recommended when you do not step up already over and you want to immerse themselves in an ancient forest, the regular route involves the slope of a gentle and Baranci back and opens a peak in the grassy part, with a beautiful view of the Alta Val Popena and the crystal. Three years ago, a Sunday in late September, after so long, we went up there to enjoy the solitude of a rope that climbers snob and many hikers do not know. Obviously, in the fog pierced by a pale autumn sun that day there were only two.

At the top, September 21, 2008

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LIGARI - ROLLA - FORCOLA che giro!

Sabato 4 Dicembre, ore 8.15. Io e Max, dopo dei cambi assurdi di macchine ed essere riusciti a scongelare con uno scalpello la storica Panda di Franca ci siamo diretti verso la contrada Ligari, sopra Triangia, per una risalita mittt-ttica con le pelli di f...ca. Lasciata la Pandüscia nel piazzale a fianco della chiesetta ci siamo affidati solo ed esclusivamente alle nostre forze (n.d.r. non siamo arrivati lontani :-)

La temperatura era mite e la neve non era abbondante ma sufficiente considerato il fatto che siamo partiti con gli sci da sotto i 1000 metri di altitudine. Dopo aver transitato per Rolla di Sotto e di Sopra abbiamo puntato dritti verso Forcola. Alle 11, per motivi di tempo, in quanto bisognava ritirare le figlie alla scuola, abbiamo avuto la splendida idea "de tajà sü drizz" per un prato seguendo delle tracce di ciaspole e sci. Bella l’idea, peccato però che le tracce di ciaspole erano di una lepre bianca e quelle di sci appartenevano ad uno sci alpinista che in precedenza era sceso e certo non salito da quella parte. :-)

Arrivati tra 1000 fatiche in cima al pratone, ci siamo addentrati nel bosco per scattare una foto alla fontana innevata per poi sorseggiare un the caldo. Purtroppo il tempo stringeva e le gambe cominciavano a cedere inoltre avevamo raggiunto l’ora “X” per il ritorno in valle. La discesa è stata più faticosa della salita… mai avuto un’esperienza simile “scendendo a uouo v.d.m.d.” cmq alla fine siamo giunti alla macchina e siamo tornati in città nei tempi stabiliti. Ottima uscita!