To date guide Ampezzo died at older ages is certainly Pompanin Zacharias said "Zacara de Radesca", born in the village of Zuel died on 26/8/1861 and 22/3/1955, the threshold novantaquattresimo years of age. Pompanin admirably embodied the golden age of going to crags in the Dolomites, was driving in 1892 and practiced without interruption for nearly thirty five years, retiring in 1926. Clearly the achievement of advanced age is a "Runs in the Family", since three daughters Pompanin have crossed the threshold of the nineties: Mary is off ninety-six years; Oliva reached ninety-five; Zita is off to one hundred and two. The company best known Pompanin of Zechariah, who in the twenty years 1892 - 1912 he carried out a fortnight, including some very interesting, is undoubtedly the "Camino Pompanin" on the N wall of the Croda da Lago Way, opened on 28/08/1895 with the musicologist Turin Leone Sinigaglia and his colleague Angelo Zangiacomi, offered climbers a 70 meter high chimney, which required a refined technique and was very "à la page" in the era of exploration dolomitic. Today I think that most of those attending the summits Cortina do not even know where he's at home that a fireplace, a hundred years ago that led to the Refuge Barbaria, who was born in 1901 on rive del Lago di Federa, alpinisti da tutta Europa. Delle tante vie del “Zaca”, che nei camini s'intrufolava come un gatto, forse un paio riceveranno ancora qualche visita nelle belle stagioni: è l’amaro destino dell’alpinismo d'una volta, che ormai richiede troppa fatica, sacrificio e rischio per essere gustato.
Monday, January 31, 2011
Wednesday, January 26, 2011
Pickup Trucks Getting Bigger
Quando salgo a Pratopiazza, volgo sempre lo sguardo verso una cima poco nota e frequentata, perché priva di sentieri, da segnalare a chi ama l'alpinismo fuori dalle tracce, senza bolli né tabelle, in ambiente magnifico: la Ponta del Pin.
La Ponta emerge dalla dorsale che si allunga dalla Croda Rossa verso E, e la si può ammirare già da Cimabanche. Dal ramo che la montagna protende verso il Passo scende un crinale, in alto roccioso e sotto coperto di vegetazione, che limita in destra orografica la Val dei Canopi, storico punto di transito fra la Pusteria e Ampezzo.
La costiera si chiama Costa del Pin perché è rivestita da pini silvestri; l'elevazione che la domina, salita nel 1906 da alpinisti austriaci, pur non ospitando pini sulle sue pendici ha lo stesso nome, Ponta del Pin. Lungo il crinale della Costa corre il confine fra Veneto e Alto Adige, del quale - in mezzo a mughi inextricable - wishing you can indulge in identifying the stones.
Ponta climb, but with difficulty climbing is not very high commitment from Pratopiazza, moving first to the SW through meadows and woods, and then aiming at the entrance of a gravel down a notch between the tip and the spur E. For a short but steep channel blocks, standing on the right you come to a fork in a beautiful arch rock. Turn right again, continue on the partition wall and flank, easy little man with a few rocks and debris, which allow you to get up gently to the soft rock, far as the pre. Along the ridge a bit 'exposed, in short is the top.
for the first time I climbed the Bridge Pin, excellent on the observatory and the Croda Rossa and Dürrenstein in 1990. Documented and I was intrigued: I drove the short description of the ascent is in the guidance of Berti the Eastern Dolomites, and I had talked with his son Camillo, which confirmed to me that you have climbed the tip with his father in the '30s.
Since then I have shared that goal with several friends for five or six times. Following faint traces and forget, I discovered the magic of a corner of the most solitary and less trampled in the Dolomites, which I think deserves great respect.
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| From left: Bridge Pin, Croda Rossa, Crodaccia High, Little Croda Rossa (from Pratopiazza, autumn 2009) |
Tuesday, January 25, 2011
Do You Have To Dilute Green Soap
August 15 in the mountains
I've always heard that, fulfilling an ancient custom, in Cortina (and perhaps not only here) the day of Ferragosto mountain guides and climbers in the mountains not climbed, the religious festival honoring the town . To a certain period, the rule was true guides (with some exceptions), but not for the squirrels that often, just that giorno, in montagna ci andavano eccome. Limitandomi alle realizzazioni dei primi 40 anni di vita del gruppo, nel 1945 Ettore Costantini, Luigi Menardi e Armando Apollonio raccordarono con un tratto di VI le Vie “Miriam” e “Diretta” sulla Torre Grande delle 5 Torri; l’anno dopo, Albino Alverà e Ugo Pompanin conclusero la II ripetizione della Via Comici sulla parete N del Salame (Sassolungo); nel 1955 Beniamino Franceschi e Candido Bellodis iniziarono a salire la parete NW della Torre d’Alleghe (Civetta), terminando la scalata il giorno seguente dopo 20 ore; nel 1968, Lorenzo Lorenzi e Luciano Salvadori scalarono la parete S della Torre Fanes per una via dedicata allo Scoiattolo Ivano Dibona, scomparso A few days ago. Finally in 1974, to commemorate the twentieth anniversary of the conquest of K2, Raniero Valleferro, Carlo Alberto Dallago Demenego and - after 40 hours of wall - came on top of the Spur Tofana Central Middle. For the following years, from memory I do not remember business major from August 15 match. In 1982, it fell to me to transgress the ancient precept, rising for the first time the dihedral W Cason de Cima Formin (Croda da Lago). The beautiful day mitigated the guilt felt in breaking a custom village ...
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